2G Antenna

Antennas made of metal, i.e. verticals or also beams (yagis) are mostly constructed of aluminum, with some steel for the mounting elements. Here, one should check all elements carefully for fatigue, usually recognizable by groups of hairline cracks, which occur preferably at bending points and screw connections.

Special attention should be paid to the caps at the ends of the elements and boom tubes. Like any plastic, they rot, and then water penetrates. No later than the next frost, this can lead to disastrous effects. Another effect of missing or broken pipe caps is insects nesting in the pipes. In thin elements, it is usually a single animal, perhaps even a beneficial wild bee.

Antenna mounting elements are often made of steel, either stainless steel or anodized or galvanized. With stainless steel, there is little to worry about (except strength). Normal steel parts with surface protection can suffer, then rust starts very quickly. Slightly rusted screws are best replaced immediately, and U-bolts are also available from specialized dealers. At the end of the inspection a small drop of oil on the screws, or some conductive grease on the pipe connections guarantees a long life of the antenna.

One of the most vulnerable parts of outdoor antennas are the coaxial cables and the connections to the antenna. Here, you should check the entire length of the cable for cracks and kinks. A cable that is feared to have water penetration should be completely replaced. You will never get moisture out of cables with air foam dielectric. Even otherwise completely inconspicuous cables should be replaced after 10 to 15 years. Through osmosis and the possible breathing (inside the house largely constant temperature; outside alternately warm/cold), moisture is sucked in like an air pump and does not come out again. Due to the only very slowly decreasing quality of the cable, one hardly notices a deterioration during operation.

Each plug should be checked carefully, each socket should be cleaned - if available, blow it out with compressed air. In any case, clean, check for corrosion and replace if necessary. Often coaxial cables are connected directly to the radiator without connectors. This works well, but must be checked carefully in any case. At least the screw connection should be loosened, if necessary greased or sealed and reattached. The insulation of the cable transition must be checked and replaced if necessary.

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